We’ve listed Frequently Asked Questions below. If your question isn’t addressed here, please call us at (860) 434-9002 or email firstname.lastname@example.org.
Call us at (860) 434-9002 and we can direct you to your closest Callaway Authorized Chevrolet Dealer. If there is no Callaway Authorized Dealer in your vicinity, we can work with your local Chevrolet dealer to arrange delivery of the base car or truck to Callaway’s California or Connecticut facility for conversion. Then you can take delivery of your new Callaway at the dealership or at the Callaway factory. You can also take delivery of your Callaway Corvette at the National Corvette Museum via the RPO R8C National Corvette Museum Delivery Option.
Can I buy a Callaway car or truck directly from Callaway?
No. Callaway does not sell complete cars or trucks, with the exception of periodically selling product development vehicles after their test programs have concluded.
I am planning to buy a new Corvette (or Camaro, or Chevy truck, or GMC). How do I make it a Callaway?
Very easily. Call Callaway Cars at (860) 434-9002 and speak to a Callaway Specialist about the details of your order. Our staff will contact your dealer to arrange transportation to and from the Callaway factory. When you order your new Callaway, the dealer will specify the Callaway drop ship code. Then your new car or truck will be built at Chevrolet’s assembly plant and shipped on a GM transporter to Callaway Cars’ Connecticut or California plant. You will make all of your purchase arrangements (including financing) with the Chevrolet dealer. Upon completion, you may take delivery at your dealer or at a Callaway Factory in Connecticut or California. If you’ve purchased a Callaway Corvette, you may also elect to pick up your car at the National Corvette Museum.
I already own a Corvette (or Camaro, or Chevy truck, or GMC). How do I make it a Callaway?
Call us at (860) 434-9002. A Callaway Specialist will direct you to your local Authorized Callaway Dealer and your purchase would be handled by the dealership, just as though you were purchasing new. If there are no Authorized Callaway Dealers nearby, the Callaway Specialist can arrange for you to purchase the package directly from Callaway.
There are certain criteria that used vehicles must meet to be considered for Callaway conversion. First, the vehicle must be of the current or previous model year and completely stock, just like it rolled off the assembly line. Second, the vehicle must be completely free from any damage or defects. Third, while there is no specific odometer reading limitation, the vehicle must be as-new mechanically. That means, at Callaway’s discretion, testing may be required to determine the condition of your engine before proceeding with any other work.
Should I shop around to get the best deal on a new Callaway?
As part of the Authorized Callaway Retailer Agreement, our dealers have agreed to charge the Manufacturer’s Suggested Retail Price (MSRP) for all Callaway packages and optional equipment. No individual dealer will give you a better price than any other for the Callaway equipment. The prices are still the same if you purchase directly from Callaway.
How does Callaway develop its horsepower rating? Engine dyno or rear wheel?
In order to establish advertised power ratings, peak horsepower and torque are recorded during final testing of Callaway’s production prototype packages in the SuperFlow engine dynamometer cell at Callaway’s Old Lyme Connecticut facility. This testing is performed using the same processes and data correction procedures as used by GM, per SAE specification. Consequently, the values can be compared directly to GM advertised power ratings for stock vehicles.
Can I delete the Callaway badges?
Yes, you can “Option Delete” trim and certain accessories. However, there is no price reduction. Our production and pricing is planned around a certain volume. Callaway cars and trucks are engineered with components that work together; we do not modify the specification for individual vehicles. And badges and identifiers are not supplied separately. This helps defeat counterfeiting and preserves the value of the marque.
What happens to the stock parts you remove from my car? Can I get them?
Callaway Authorized Dealers prefer not to handle the “take-off parts”. Consequently, Callaway’s prices have been established with the assumption that the take-off parts won’t be returned to the dealer or retail purchaser. Callaway sells these parts to used Corvette parts dealers. If you want some or all of the take-off parts from your car, let your dealer know and prices will be provided.
Service and Maintenance
1987-1991 Callaway Twin Turbo Corvette – GM RPO B2K
• Air Filter
The 1987 Twin Turbo Corvette uses the standard replacement Corvette Air Filter element.
1988-1990 Twin Turbo Corvettes use Callaway part number 203.42.2531 (Paper) or 203.42.2532 (Gauze)
1991 Twin Turbo Corvettes use Callaway part number 2.01.00076.
Your Twin Turbo Corvette does not require special anti-freeze or cooling system maintenance. However, take special care to ensure that all air is bled from the engine whenever the cooling system is flushed or the low coolant warning light may flicker intermittently.
• Engine Oil and Filter Requirements
Because of the enhanced output of the Callaway Twin Turbo engine, consistent oil maintenance is essential for proper operation of the vehicle. The Callaway engine is assembled with different clearances compared to the Corvette production engine so oil types and service intervals are different from those recommended in the Corvette Owner’s Manual (see Lubrication Chart below). It is critical that you check the engine oil level every time you fill up with fuel.
• Choosing the Right Oil
Callaway recommends the use of Mobil 1™ Formula 15W50 synthetic engine oil only. Mobil 1™ provides superior high temperature lubrication and protection of critical engine and turbocharger components that normal mineral-based oils cannot provide. Callaway does not recommend lighter viscosity or non-synthetic oils for use in the Twin Turbo Corvette (see Lubrication Chart below). You can feel confident in using the same weight of oil year-round, regardless of climate.
• Oil Capacities
A complete engine oil and filter change requires 6 quarts of oil. See the Lubrication Chart below for other powertrain component lubrication capacities.
• Spark Plugs
Callaway recommends spark plug replacement every 12,000 miles with Champion 2095 H.O.T. spark plugs. Set the gap per factory specifications at .035”.
|Engine||Mobil 1™ 15W-50||6 qts. w/filter||4000 mi./4 mos.|
|Manual Transmission||GM #1052931||2.5 qts.*||add only as needed|
|Differential||Mobil 1™ Gear Lube||1 qt.*||add only as needed|
* Capacity is measured to the lower edge of fill hole located on left. Amount varies slightly depending on how thoroughly the unit was drained.
General Service Advice and Diagnosis
The purpose of this document is to aid in the diagnosis and repair of Callaway Twin Turbo Corvettes.
To begin, let’s look at what is different in the Callaway Twin Turbo Corvette, as compared to a standard, non-turbocharged Corvette and how this can affect drivability in general. Specific problems will be addressed later. The turbocharger system is the obvious answer, but here is all that it is: Two turbochargers that have air, exhaust gas, oil, and water flowing into them, and of course out of them, plus the wastegates. Let’s look at these one at a time.
Fresh air enters at the air filter, goes through the airflow sensor, and is split (by either the cast “Y” pipe in 1987 cars, or the “WonderBar” in later models) to go to the turbochargers. Ignoring what the turbos do for now, the air passes through the compressor side of the turbos and then goes up the compressor discharge pipes, through the intercoolers, the “Ram’s Horn” and into the throttle body. Now we are back into standard, non-turbo Corvette territory. How could all of this affect running? Air leaks or restrictions. Air leaks show up in the usual way: poor idle, low boost, or Code 33. Restrictions show up as poor high-speed performance, usually exhibiting unusually high vacuum, or a drastic decrease in boost and power at high RPM.
Exhaust gas is fed into the turbochargers from the exhaust manifolds. It goes through the turbine side of the turbos, the heavy cast iron side, through the turbine discharge, possibly the wastegate, and finally into the exhaust system. How does this affect running? Exhaust leaks, poor performance due to excessive back pressure, or overboosting due to wastegate malfunction. More on that later.
The turbochargers require, and are fed, engine oil either from a tee at the back of the intake manifold on 1987 cars, or an adapter fitting above the oil filter on later models. All that can go wrong here is turbo failure due to oil starvation (This is serious!) or leaks. The oil drains from the turbos into separate sump cans on the 1987 cars, or into a single can on later models. A scavenge pump then pumps this oil back into the engine oil pan. 1987 cars had a pump that was driven off the front of the power steering pump. This pump is obsolete and should be replaced! If you see one of these on a car, call the factory immediately. All cars should have a scavenge pump that is integrated with the accessory belt tensioner. This pump sucks the oil through a 1/2″ hose that is connected to the scavenge can(s) on the right side of the engine compartment to the top fitting on the pump. The pump discharges the oil out of the port facing the center of the engine, into another 1/2″ hose, where it is returned to the left side of the engine oil pan via a banjo fitting and a boss welded to the pan. How does this affect running? It doesn’t, but if the pump stops pumping, due to an air leak on the suction side, or a pump failure, oil will back up into the turbos filling both the exhaust and inlet tracks with oil. Tremendous clouds of smoke will be visible out the tailpipes, and in a matter of minutes the entire supply of engine oil will be ‘exhausted’ through the turbos.
The last topic is the wastegates. A wastegate is simply a valve operated by a pressure regulator that allows exhaust gases to bypass the turbochargers. Wastegate failure can cause overboost (most common failure; stuck closed), or no boost (stuck open). How does this affect running? No boost obviously means no power. Overboost (more than 50-52” Hg on the gauge) can lead to detonation, high-speed skips, blown head gaskets, or melted pistons. All drivers of this car should be made aware that boost is regulated to a maximum of 55” and that an overboost condition cannot be tolerated for more than a few seconds. Simply back off the throttle until the condition can be corrected.
The next thing to look at is the “MicroFueler” system. This system consists of the additional injectors mounted on the ““ram’s horn”” (the casting in front of the throttle body), a control module (ECU), a wiring harness, and a fuel hose connection from the fuel rail at the intake manifold. This system is required to provide additional fuel to the engine under boost conditions only. The injectors are driven by the MicroFueler ECU mounted on top of the kick panel over the driver’s knees. This ECU senses engine RPM and manifold pressure, and drives the injectors accordingly. With the exception of relying on the fuel pump for pressure and the tach connection on the distributor for engine rpm, it is 100% independent of the Corvette electronic engine management system. Failure of the MicroFueler system will cause a lean condition in boost that will, at a minimum, make the car feel down on power and, at worst, will cause engine misfire and/or detonation. Another possible failure mode of this system is to hold the MicroFueler injectors open constantly when the ignition key is in the run position. This will flood the engine and cause a no-start condition. If disconnecting the electrical connectors at the injectors enables the car to be started, then there is a problem with this system.
The eprom (or mem-cal) is reprogrammed by Callaway. The Callaway eprom gives the ESC more control over ignition timing, and more power enrichment. A faulty eprom will produce the same symptoms that a bad eprom causes in a standard non-turbo Corvette. NOTE: serious engine damage will occur if the Callaway eprom is replaced with a standard non-turbo eprom and the car is driven in any performance mode.
On 1987-1989 Twin Turbo Corvettes, a boost gauge is located in the left most central A/C duct. On 1990 and 1991 cars, the gauge is below the radio. The purpose of this gauge is to display manifold pressure. The gauge is calibrated in inches of mercury, and shows pressure and vacuum using the absolute scale. We do this so that you can refer to pressure or vacuum using the same scale. This is the scale that the pilots, IndyCar drivers, scientists and even weathermen use when referring to pressure, any pressure, regardless of being over or under atmospheric pressure. A gauge reading of less than approximately 30″ is indicating the engine running in a vacuum condition, which it does under most part throttle running. A gauge reading greater than 30″ means the engine is running in a boost condition, which happens when the engine is loaded and/or at wider throttle openings. No boost can be generated by revving the engine under no load, that is, with the car standing still. We recommend testing boost level by applying the throttle from cruise to full load repeatedly, with the car in 4th gear at 50 mph, and see if you can coax some positive manifold pressure. That would produce a reading over 30″ on the gauge (NOTE: Don’t allow more than 52″ [~10 psi] ever!) During testing, as always, make sure your car has fresh premium gasoline that is less than a year old with an octane rating of 91 RON or greater. If manifold pressure reading does not exceed 30″ during this test, the turbocharger wastegate actuator arms may be stuck partially open – a condition sometimes caused by sitting inoperative for an extended period. On 1987 models, you should be able to operate the wastegate actuator arms manually while on the car. On 1988-91 models, the wastegates must be removed from the car to inspect for a stuck actuator. In either case, if the arms do not move freely, we recommend using GM Heat Riser Lubricant – and only the GM Lubricant. It may be necessary to repeat daily applications over several consecutive days.
Generally, with the engine at idle, the gauge will read between 15 and 20 inches, and as the engine is placed under load, manifold pressure will swing over to the positive side of the gauge and reach a control pressure of 50″ to 52″ maximum (10.5 to 11 psi). The gauge will read 30″ (0 psi) when the engine is not running. If the gauge indicates more than 52″, please back off the throttle and diagnose. Too much manifold pressure will very quickly cause engine damage. A malfunction of the gauge itself will not cause any noticeable drivability problems. Almost always, however, a malfunction of the gauge is indicative of a problem elsewhere.
The last area to be looked at is the engine, including the cooling and oiling system.
The engine has been modified internally in order to make it able to withstand the additional stresses applied by its increased power output and to lower the compression to a level suitable for turbocharging. As far as engine operating problems, diagnostics are the same as for the standard non-turbo Corvette engine.
The radiator and thermostat have been upgraded in 1988 and 1989 Twin Turbo Corvettes to a custom four-row radiator and an external thermostat with bypass. This is to promote more stable coolant temperature. Again, problems are diagnosed as a standard non-turbo Corvette would be. There is no thermostat in the gooseneck, and one should not be put there unless the external thermostat and hoses are replaced with standard, non-turbo pieces. (Recent experience indicates that there is an advantage to the standard, non-turbo thermostat and radiator hoses as long as a small air bleed hole is punched or drilled in the thermostat flange.)
If a squeaking noise is detected at the accessory drive, the cause is usually the serpentine belt. The belt is exclusive to the Callaway Twin Turbo Corvette engine, a belt for a non-turbo engine will not fit properly. Use Callaway Part No. 210.98.0250 (Continental #4060887) for 1987 models or Callaway Part No. 210.98.0251 (Continental #4060919) for 1988 to 1991 models.
On Callaway Twin Turbo Corvettes, an engine oil cooler has been added in front of the radiator. With the exception of oil leaks, this will not affect drivability. It may, however, lengthen the warm-up time of the engine oil in cold ambient conditions. Engine life will be increased if the driver waits until engine oil temperature reaches at least 150°F before asking for performance.
As it is often necessary to remove various parts of the turbocharger system in order to service other engine components, the following includes directions on how to remove and replace various parts:
Intercoolers and Compressor Discharge Pipes
To remove the intercoolers, completely loosen the rear-most hose clamps at the blue Vulco connectors that connect the intercoolers to the “ram’s horn” (the hose clamp wants to be disconnected from itself at the screw clamp). Loosen the bottom-most hose clamps on the Vulcos with the heatshield wrappings that connect the intercoolers to the compressor discharge tubes. Lift firmly at the back of the intercooler until it comes off the discharge tube. Pull the front of the intercooler out of the “ram’s horn”.
To remove the compressor discharge pipes, it is necessary to jack the car up and support it on appropriate stands.
The left side compressor discharge pipe can be removed by loosening the upper hose clamp on the Vulco at the compressor discharge on the turbocharger. Remove the exhaust manifold bolt that holds the pipe bracket to the engine, and twist the pipe up and out.
The right side compressor discharge pipe is held to the compressor discharge on the turbocharger by two Allen capscrews through a flange which is accessed from the bottom. A ball-ended, or “Bondhus”, Allen wrench makes removal of these capscrews possible without disconnecting any water lines from the turbos. The Snap-On part number for a suitable tool is FABLM6. Mac Tools has a conventional 90 degree key that they sell as part number HKSM6. This tool will work better if the short end is cut off and it is used in conjunction with a 6mm 1/4″ drive socket. Simply remove the capscrews and washers and lift the tube up and out. Be sure and get the o-ring that is in the groove on the turbo flange. Unless it is damaged, it is okay to use this o-ring again.
IT IS STRONGLY RECOMMENDED THAT, WHENEVER THE COMPRESSOR HOUSINGS OF THE TURBOS ARE OPENED, THEY BE PLUGGED WITH SHOP PAPER TOWELS. ANYTHING THAT IS DROPPED INTO THE TURBO MUST BE RECOVERED, OR THE TURBO WILL BE RUINED.
To replace the right side compressor discharge pipe, simply reverse procedure. A little anti-seize on the bolts will make their removal easier next time.
On the left side compressor discharge pipe, make sure the tube flare is completely inserted into the Vulco before tightening the clamp. Start the bolt into the exhaust manifold and rotate the pipe towards the exhaust manifold before tightening the hose clamp at the bottom. Completely tighten the bolt into the exhaust manifold. It is important that the spark plug heat shield not be allowed to rotate and touch the spark plug wire or boot.
The procedure for replacing either intercooler is the same. Lubricate the inside of the Vulcos with silicone spray lubricant, or WD-40. Push the back of the intercooler down onto the compressor discharge pipe until the bottom of the intercooler is butted against the top of the compressor discharge pipe inside the Vulco. Push the front of the intercooler down over the Vulco on the “Ram’s Horn”. Lift the top edge of the Vulco up while pushing down on the front of the intercooler. Using a small screwdriver or a cotter pin removal tool gently lever the Vulco completely around the discharge of the intercooler. If any difficulty is encountered doing this, use more lubricant. The left side intercooler needs to be pushed down firmly while the hose clamp is being tightened in order to maintain its alignment with the “Ram’s Horn”.
The “Ram’s Horn”
To remove the “Ram’s Horn”, remove the intercoolers as outlined above. Disconnect the electrical connectors to the MicroFueler injectors. There is fuel pressure in the fuel line to the MicroFueler fuel rail. Support the rail with a 1/2″ wrench, and crack the banjo bolt to the fuel rail with a 17mm wrench. Wrap a rag around this connection while the fuel pressure bleeds off. After the fuel pressure bleeds off, disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel rail. Save the two copper washers, as they may be used again unless they are damaged. Remove the four Allen capscrews that hold the “Ram’s Horn” and throttle body to the plenum. Be careful not to scratch the “ram’s horn” with wrench, screw heads, or washers. (The Bondhus Allen wrench mentioned above is handy for this operation also.) Notice that there is a large o-ring inside the “Ram’s Horn”. Do not lose it.
Re-installation is the reverse procedure of removal. Just be sure that the throttle body gasket is properly positioned before installing the bolts. Tighten the bolts evenly.
Correcting Drivability Problems
Procedure for correcting driveability problems with Callaway Twin Turbo Corvettes, assuming there are no “hard” trouble codes:
- Perform a careful visual inspection of the following, looking for air leaks in particular (Because 1990-1991 models has no MAF, air leaks before the throttle body will not cause drivability problems although they will cause a performance loss.)
- Is the MAF securely clamped in the airfilter housing? (1988-1989 models)
- Is the rubber boot securely fastened to the MAF and the casting that goes into the “wonder bar”? (1988-1989 models)
- Is the compressor discharge tube on the left side turbocharger (pipe that goes up left side of motor and into the bottom of the left side intercooler) securely clamped to the turbocharger? This is a potential problem area because the clamp can slip to a position where it is not securing the pipe to the turbo but looks as though it is secure. There is not enough airflow at idle for this to show up as an air leak, but at high speed it will.
- Are both the CCP purge hose and vacuum control hose connected at the check valves below and to the front of the left side intercooler? Are they connected at the throttle body?
- Are the breather hoses connected at the “T” under the throttle inlet casting? Is the hose from this “T” connected to the next “T,” and then are the hoses intact to the throttle body and the air-oil separator? (The gold cadmium plated can in front of the power steering pump.)
- Make sure that the spark plug primary and secondary wires behind the distributor are not inter-twined.
- Make sure that the ignition timing is set at 6 degrees BTDC with the bypass wire disconnected. If the timing is severely retarded (anything after TDC), remove the distributor from the engine and check the drive gear for excessive wear.
- Check the air filter for signs of having been wet, or if it is seriously dirty. Replace it for either reason.
- Does the boost gauge show 12″ Hg of pressure at idle (higher at higher altitude)? If it doesn’t, then hook a vacuum gauge to a port on the intake manifold to confirm that the engine is making reduced vacuum. Important note: the boost gauge is calibrated in absolute pressure, so 12″ of pressure on the boost gauge corresponds to 18″ of vacuum on a diagnostic vacuum gauge. If this is the case, then diagnose as you would any engine that has low vacuum (i.e., air leak, inlet or exhaust restriction, etc.). If the boost gauge is showing pressure higher than the vacuum gauge attached above, trace the nylon hose to the firewall, then from inside to the MicroFueler and, finally, to the boost gauge to see where it is leaking. On 1987 models, it also must be checked from the “T” at the brake booster down to the left side wastegate, and then across the bottom of the car to the right side wastegate. The most likely places for leaks are at any of the connections in the first six inches of this hose, or at the “T” in front of the MicroFueler module. This hose will hold a vacuum if all is as it is supposed to be. See schematic on car vacuum hose routing sticker.
- Connect a “TECH-1” or similar scan tool to the car and take a snap shot at full throttle acceleration with the center of the data stream being the 2-3 shift. On a “TECH-1”, this would be when to push the button. Is the oxygen sensor reading spending most of its time (say 4 counts out of 5) in the range of 750-950 mV? If it is significantly lower, then the operation of the MicroFueler must be checked. The MicroFueler is the black electronic module mounted above the panel over the driver’s knees. It senses engine RPM and boost pressure and drives the two injectors that are located in the “ram’s horn” throttle inlet casting. With the exception of the fuel it receives from the fuel rail and the tach signal from the white wire to the distributor cap, the MicroFueler is independent of the car’s fuel and ignition systems. To check the MicroFueler, disconnect the connectors at the two injectors on the front of the engine. With the engine running, disconnect the vacuum hose from the plenum that runs to the MicroFueler, and apply regulated air pressure to it. UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD SHOP AIR BE USED. AIR PRESSURES OVER 20 PSI WILL DAMAGE THE TRANSDUCER INSIDE THE MICROFUELER. Put an injector test light on each of the connectors disconnected above. The light should blink. As the boost pressure or RPM are raised, the blinking rate should increase. Test both injectors. Remove the pressure from the hose and reconnect the injectors. Re-apply the pressure and see if the idle changes (pressure to the fuel pressure regulator might also be being increased). Feel or listen to each of the two injectors to see that they are clicking. If the test light does not light or if the injectors are not being driven, than there is a wiring problem or the MicroFueler is defective and must be replaced. Check the wiring per the pinouts listed below. Otherwise the MicroFueler is not causing the lean condition.
Microfueler harness pinouts:
#1 & #4 – empty
#2 – ground (brown wire)
#3 – black injector wire
#5 – system voltage, key on hot
#6 – black injector wire
#7 – tach signal (black wire) with engine running test light to ground should blink brightly.
#8 – white injector wire (paired with #3)
#9 – white injector wire (paired with #6)
- Check for proper fuel pressure. The procedure is the same as that outlined in the Chevrolet shop manual except the blue cap on the “T” on the fuel rail is the proper place to hook the gauge up. The car should be driven with the gauge taped to the windshield as the volume of fuel the car requires at wide open throttle is substantially greater than that required at idle. The fuel pressures should be as outlined in the shop manual (approx. 37 psi at idle, 48 psi at wide open throttle) but, as the car goes into boost, fuel pressure should increase as manifold pressure increases, to a maximum of 56 psi. Diagnose low fuel pressure per the Chevrolet shop manual.
Further questions should be directed to: email@example.com
Owners of automatic transmission equipped Callaway Corvettes should implement this technique as a standard part of their driving routine.
Perhaps you’ve discovered this already, but if not, try this the next time you drive your car:
Put the car into paddle shift mode.
To do this, simply select “S” on the gearshift and initiate one paddle shift event at the beginning of every drive cycle.
This forces the gearbox to remain in the selected gear even when full throttle is used.
As the primary driver, you probably already know that a sudden full-throttle application, while in the full automatic mode, will incur a downshift, and sometimes a ‘double downshift’. This results in too much power and an unpleasant drive. Putting the car into paddle shift mode prevents the downshift altogether.
It’s better to have the car stay in the selected gear, and use the boost from the supercharger to feed in the power with your throttle foot, as you wish; not as the gearbox wishes.
All potential drivers of the car should also be informed: especially the driver new to the car.
Click on this Link to go to the Product Instructions page. You can print a hard copy from here, or call Callaway Technical Support at (860) 434-9002 for further assistance.
A question that often arises: How to best launch a manual gearbox Callaway Corvette or Camaro? Answer: Judiciously! Start at about 1500 RPM. That’s right, 1500! We’ve found that this is approximately the right rpm for a successful launch. Just try not to overpower the tires. Shift to 2nd a few tenths before you see the 6400 RPM point. For Corvette, shoot for a 1.6 second sixty-foot time.
Alternately, use Launch Control. The Launch Control function included in Camaro and Corvette traction management actually works fairly well for both stock and Callaway applications. It’s especially helpful for drivers without much experience with high horsepower vehicles. We have tested with Launch Control as part of our product development process to ensure that it functions as originally designed.
There are conditions that the Launch Control system cannot monitor, however, including tire temperature and condition, and road surface temperature and condition. When tires are cold, when the road surface is cold, or when the road surface or tires aren’t clean and dry, excessive wheel spin is more likely.
Follow the instructions provided in your Corvette or Camaro Owner’s Manual:
1) Double click the Traction Control button, you’ll see “Competitive Mode” displayed in the Driver’s Information Center (DIC).
2) Depress clutch pedal to floor.
3) Move shifter to first gear.
4) Depress accelerator pedal all the way to the floor, smoothly. Engine speed will hunt briefly and then stabilize at approximately 4200 RPM for Corvette, 3500 RPM for Camaro.
5) Keep accelerator pedal to floor and release the clutch rapidly but smoothly.
6) Hold on.
Link to Range Rover 4.6 HSE Callaway Technical Specification Details
Recommended Fuel Type – Callaway Corvette, Callaway Camaro, Callaway SportTrucks, Callaway CTS-V, Callaway SS:
91-93 RON Premium Unleaded. (Minimum octane rating)
What oil should I use? When should I change it?
Recommended Engine Oil – Callaway Corvette, Callaway Camaro, Callaway SportTrucks, Callaway CTS-V, Callaway SS:
Mobil1 synthetic 5W30.
Callaway endorses the change interval specified by GM’s in-dash instrumentation.
Corvette SC580: AC Delco P/N 41-985 (stock LS3 spark plug)
Corvette SC580 w/616 HP option: Callaway P/N 207.15.4401, AC Delco P/N 41-104 Iridium
Corvette SC606, SC652: Callaway P/N 207.15.4401, AC Delco P/N 41-104 Iridium
Spark Gap: .040″ (1.0 mm)
How do I find replacement supercharger drive belts?
All belts are Gates Micro-V series available from Callaway Cars and from most auto parts stores.
Front serpentine drive belts –
Camaro 2010-2014 SC552/SC572: Callaway P/N 289.37.0250 or Gates P/N K060947
Corvette 2005-2007 SC560 w/early tensioner: Callaway P/N 289.60.0251 or Gates P/N K061045
Corvette 2008 SC560 and SC580 w/late tensioner: Callaway P/N 289.60.0253 or Gates P/N K061037
Corvette 2009-2010 SC580: Gates P/N K061025
Corvette 2009-2013 SC606/SC620/652: Callaway P/N 289.60.0253 or Gates P/N K061037
SportTrucks 2010-2014 SC450/SC490/SC540: Callaway P/N 289.23.0250 or Gates P/N K061098
Supercharger rear drive belts –
8 rib for C5 and C6 SC560, SC580 and 616 HP option: Callaway P/N 289.65.0260 or Gates P/N K080220
10 rib for SC606, SC620, SC652: Callaway P/N 289.75.0260 or Gates P/N K100234
|Callaway Corvette Serpentine Belt Routing|
|Callaway Camaro Serpentine Belt Routing|
Symptom: Apparent oil on rear shock body, spring perch, control arm.
At first, this looks like a leaking rear shock. However, in the examples we have seen here, the oil is an installation lubricant for the isolation sleeve that surrounds the spring. Clean the area and continue to observe.
Faulty Fuse Holder – 2007 Callaway Corvette
The fused circuit that supplies power to the Magnavolt fuel pump controller is prone to a failure of the early style fuse holder. The symptom is intermittent operation of the fuel pump. These original-style fuse holders should be replaced by the updated version with the WeatherPak-style connector. Contact Callaway Technical Service for replacement parts.
Alternator Pulley Attachment
The alternator pulley nut is secured with Loctite 290 wicking-type threadlocker. It is worthwhile to check its tightness periodically. For maintenance and repair, use a new locknut each time the alternator pulley is re-installed. Loctite per standard procedure.
Can I retune my ECM for more power?
DO NOT RECALIBRATE YOUR ECM!
The program that controls the engine management system in your Callaway is special and unique to your vehicle configuration. It was installed into your Electronic Control Module (ECM) by recalibrating the ROM (read-only-memory) at Callaway.
The Callaway version of the software, or calibration as it is known, is the only one your car or truck can use. The problem comes when the ECM is inadvertently recalibrated at the Chevrolet dealership during normal maintenance. The GM service department recalibrates ECM’s on all GM cars as a standard part of update maintenance. Your responsibility as a Callaway owner is to not let this happen.
Even though Callaway Authorized Dealerships know this, it is highly recommended that you remind the technician or service advisor when you drop off your vehicle. If the ECM is recalibrated using the standard GM calibration, the car will not run well, and if driven in this condition, serious engine damage may occur. Chevrolet dealers cannot install the Callaway calibration. The ECM must be returned to Callaway to be recalibrated.
In order to make this clear, there is a warning on the cover of the port that accesses the ECM. It clearly states: DO NOT RECALIBRATE!
Between this warning and your knowledge of this situation, we hope that you will guard against this misstep.
Should this error occur, the ECM can be overnighted to Callaway Cars, and we will recalibrate the ECM at no charge other than shipping. Please call Callaway Technical Service in advance for confirmation (860 434 9002).
Please see the testimonials page. We think you will get the message, especially with comments like, “Best money I ever spent…” and many other truly heartwarming comments
We recommend the Continental 295/40ZR22 ContiSportContact maximum performance summer tire for SportTrucks. Tires available in 305/40ZR22 include Pirelli Scorpion Zero Asimmetrico all-season and General Grabber UHP summer tires. However, we do not have any experience with the Pirellis or the Generals for the SportTruck application.
I’d like to replace the tires on my Callaway Corvette, but the original Michelins have been discontinued. What tires do you recommend?
The original tires were:
285/30-ZR19 Michelin PS2® ZP Front (Michelin Part No. 13913)
335/25-ZR20 Michelin PS2® ZP Rear (Michelin Part No. 13161)
We recommend these replacements:
285/30-ZR19 Michelin Pilot® Super Sport ZP (Michelin Part No. 05916)
335/25-ZR20 Michelin Pilot® Super Sport ZP (Michelin Part No. 02430)
We don’t recommend a non-zero pressure (ZP) tire.
Corvette, Camaro – Wheel Torque Specification
In 2010, GM published updated wheel lug nut torque specs:
2010-2013 Corvette – 100 lb-ft
2010-up Camaro – 140 lb-ft
The Callaway Warranty is provided as standard equipment and covers all of the Callaway-installed components and most GM original equipment powertrain components. The term of the Callaway Warranty is 3 years or 36,000 miles, whichever comes first. An optional 5 year/60,000 mile Callaway Powertrain Service Contract is also available (or 5 year/100,000 mile coverage, for 2015 and earlier cars and trucks).
Which powertrain parts are covered and which are not under the Callaway Limited Warranty and the Callaway Powertrain Service Contract?
Most powertrain parts are covered by either GM or Callaway. Powertrain parts that are not covered by Callaway are listed in the Limited Warranty and Extended Service Contract documents.
Is my GM warranty voided when I buy a Callaway?
No, your GM warranty is not voided. All non-powertrain-related parts of your Callaway are still covered by GM. If your problem is powertrain-related, Callaway works with the GM Dealer to determine the root cause. If the problem was caused by a defective GM component, and the affected components are covered by the GM powertrain warranty, then GM reimburses the dealership. If the problem was caused by a Callaway product defect and the affected components are covered by the Callaway Extended Powertrain Service Contract, then Callaway reimburses the dealership.
Do I have to bring my Callaway back to the Callaway factories for warranty or service?
No. All Callaway maintenance, service or warranty repairs should be performed by your local Authorized Callaway/Chevrolet Deale
Do I have to bring my Callaway to an Authorized Callaway Dealer for service or warranty repairs?
No. Authorized Callaway Dealers employ specially trained staff; however, we realize that returning to an Authorized Callaway Dealer may not be possible or practical. Consequently, you may bring your Callaway to any Chevrolet dealer for maintenance or service. Most maintenance and service is performed as per Chevrolet’s prescribed original equipment procedures. However, upon bringing your Callaway to a “non-authorized” dealer, please instruct the Service Writer to contact Callaway Technical Service at (860) 434-9002 before any diagnostics, service or repair is performed. Then Callaway will be able to supply specific replacement parts, technical assistance and warranty reimbursement, as appropriate.
Do I get a free loaner or a rental car allowance if I have to leave my Callaway at the dealership?
No. Neither a free loaner vehicle nor rental car allowance is provided by the Callaway 3 Year/36,000 Mile Limited Warranty or by the Callaway optional Powertrain Service Contract.
What is Callaway’s warranty policy on individual performance products, like Honker Intake Systems, Double-D Exhaust Systems, ShortThrow Shifters, for example?
Callaway Cars, Incorporated, (Callaway) warrants to the original retail purchaser that its products will be free from defects in material and workmanship when put into normal use. This warranty is not transferable. Callaway’s obligations under this warranty shall be limited to repair or replacement, at its option, of any parts deemed to be defective under normal use within the terms of this warranty. Callaway’s warranty period is ninety (90) days, beginning on the purchase date indicated on the consumers sales receipt.
Can I do my own oil changes and other maintenance?
Yes. You are not restricted from performing your own maintenance. However, all Callaway Limited Warranty and Extended Powertrain Service Contract repairs must be performed by GM dealerships. If you perform your own maintenance and a warranty-related issue should arise, you may be asked to provide receipts and other maintenance records. The use of GM-approved oils, fluids, and service parts is required.
If I install headers, modify the supercharger, or re-tune the ECM, will I void the Callaway Limited Warranty or Extended Powertrain Service Contract?
Yes, if you perform any modifications which defeat or tamper with the operation of vehicle emissions systems or install or modify any components or programming that affect Callaway product specifications, the Callaway Limited Warranty and Extended Powertrain Service Contract become null and void.
When does the term of the Callaway Extended Powertrain Service Contract start and end?
The start date of the Powertrain Service Contract is your Callaway’s in-service date: the day you took delivery of your new car or truck. The start mileage is the odometer reading indicated when you took delivery. The Callaway Powertrain Service Contract expires on the same day of the sixtieth month after your in-service date, or your in-service mileage plus 60,000 miles, whichever occurs first (100,000 miles on 2015 and earlier cars and trucks).
Is the Callaway Extended Powertrain Service Contract transferrable?
Yes, the Extended Powertrain Service Contract is transferable to subsequent owners by applying to Callaway for assignment within thirty (30) days of change in ownership. Transfer fee, transfer form and complete procedure are available from Callaway upon request. Callaway will recognize the owner of record in the GM vehicle data system as the owner entitled to Service Contract benefits. If the Service Contract has been transferred, the GM owner of record data must match the assignee data on file at Callaway.